The Sapphire Hotel Yogyakarta

Here is where I am staying during my language course.  In the middle of the video, the camera turns toward the ceiling of the lobby where you will see the inside of a traditional Javanese pavilion.

Prambanan and Borobodur Temples

There are two interesting sites near Yogyakarta that you should know about.  I may or not may make it to them this visit, but I have been to both many times.  They are Prambanan and Yogyakarta.

            The Prambanan temple complex is about 20 km east of Yogyakarta in Central Java.  It was completed in the mid-ninth century by the Hindu King Pikatan of the Sanjaya dynasty.   It incorporates both Hindu and Buddhist elements, which legend attributes to the marriage of  King Pikatan to a  Buddhist woman.  

One indicator of Buddhist influence is the shape of the temples.  Instead of the common Hindu pattern, these structures are topped with a diamond shape which closely resembles a stupa, or a reliquary for images or remains of the Buddha. At the center of the complex are three temples dedicated to Shiva, Visnu, and Brahma, the holy trinity of Hinduism.  The center temple is the largest and is dedicated to Shiva.  However, it also houses chambers with statues of  Durga, the destroyer goddess, Agastya, the protector of Rama, and Ganesha, the elephant-headed god.  The central candi are decorated with bas-relief scenes from the Hindu epic, the Ramayana.  The complex was abandoned shortly after it was build and not rediscovered until 1733.  In 1885, the site was cleared of jungle vegetation.  Reconstruction was started in 1918 and continues today. 

            

Borobodur, also near Yogyakarta, was built around 750 CE by the Sailendra dynasty.  Originally 42 m (138 feet) tall, the stupa now stands at 31.5 m (108 feet) tall and is 123 m wide, making it the third largest Buddhist monuments in the world.  There are three layers to the temple, which the pilgrim (a person who visit a place with a religious purpose) walks around in a counter clockwise direction.  These are the Sphere of Desire, the Sphere of Form, and Sphere of Formlessness.  Each layer is decorated with bas-relief depictions of scenes from the prior lives of the Buddha.  As the pilgrims move through temple, they are reminded of the stages through which one must progress on their search for Nirvana.  

The top section comprises of three circular terraces ringed by stupas containing seated Buddha images.  At the top and center is the main stupa, which rises 23 feet from its base.  Like Prambanan, it was abandoned and later rediscovered by Europeans.  Starting in 1814, the jungle growth was cleared.  Easier access to the site lead to vandalism and looting.  Dutch efforts to repair the temple, starting in 1907, were doomed because the foundation was too weak.  One effort tried to use cement to strengthen the construction.  The extra weight of the cement made the structure sag.   In 1973, a UNESCO support project employing 700 workers for 10 years strengthened the foundation and restored and rebuild the temple.

 

 

For a basic introduction to the Prambanan temples, see “The Prambanan Temples” on Travelling in Indonesia http://www.emp.pdx.edu/htliono/pramban.html, accessed 4-22-04

 

Perhaps the best review of the Borobodur site is the information compiled by the World Heritage Foundation to establish it as a World Heritage Site in  "World Heritage Review: The Borobodur Complex" (2003) http://www.worldheritagereview.org/news/fullstory.php/aid/44/The_Borobodur_Compound.html, accessed 2/9/04.

 Also, here is an interesting video about Borobodur.  Borobodur, The Lost Temple of Java part 1 of 2

Arrival in Yogya

I arrived in Yogya yesterday at 8:45 in the morning.  Before my grant starts in earnest, I have the opportunity for two weeks of language study.  As I had expected, the hotel did not have my room ready and so I went down to Jalan Malioboro, a major tourist destination with lots of shopping.  I turned down a side street to the area that were my stomping grounds in Yogya when I was younger.  No more than 10 steps down that street then someone asks, “Hey, don’t I know you.”  It was Agus, he runs a losman, a small simple inn, that targets backpackers (young westerners who travel the world on very small budgets).  It was good to see an old friend.

 

I had an early lunch at Superman Café and he had an iced tea.  I had tea with my lunch, but since I asked for an unsweet tea, we had to make sure that we each got the right tea.  The Javanese like their sweet tea.  An American Southerner would feel right at home drinking tea in Java, although I suspect that even they might find it too sweet.

 

We talked about many things – esp. the way that things change and the way that they stay the same.  The Rama bookshop, the one that had been the best English language bookstore in Indonesia – well known for finding and stocking serious and sometimes hard to find books about Indonesia, is gone.  The owner, Muharram, had been renting and after the 2004 earthquake could no longer afford the rent.  The space is now a small hotel.  I guess there were other floors that Muharram never used.  A few of the other business that I had known were gone.  But despite those small shifts, it was essentially the same place.   Agus says that tourism is finally picking back up.  Some of it from Malaysia and elsewhere in Asia, but there is a noticeable return of American and other Western tourists.   Its still not at the level it was before the 1997 economic crisis which prompted the fall of a dictator and political instability.  However, in the last few months, the US Department of State has lifted all travel warnings for American citizens.

 

Unprompted, Agus related some significant changes.  With the  fasting month of Ramadan starting soon – no bars are open and may not open again until after the month of Ramadan has concluded.  This law reflects a number of interested changes for Indonesia.  First , is the change from the long held perspective that what someone does is a matter between themselves and God.   Indonesia has not taken the step of enforcing the fast – in Malaysia a Muslim faces a $100 fine if they are caught not fasting.  However, forcing all bars and dance clubs to close during Ramadan has significance beyond Muslims.   Agus said that this law shows respect for Muslims and that he likes it.   I had heard of this law before but was under the impression that these laws were local ordinances and not national.  Agus suggested that while they were local ordinances that a mandate came out of the central government for such local ordinances.

 

I went for a swim in the afternoon and passed what looked like an American studying with an Indonesian and wondered if that wasn’t my teacher.  Since I worn a sarong over my swimsuit when walking to and from the pool, she wondered if that strange Westerner wasn’t her student.  She had googled my name and knew that I had some previous experience in Indonesia.  Still she was still pretty surprised to find out that I spoke Indonesian and had brought a beginner textbook for me to study. 

 

Food Courts in Tokyo Mall

Ok, Kids.  I know this blog is supposed to be about Indonesia, but here is a little entry about Japan. On my way to Indonesia, I have to overnight in Japan.    Since I got here early enough in the afternoon, I went out of the hotel and wound up in a mall food court.  If you look at the food court booth in the picture, you will see on the left what looks like a vending machine.  I was thrown for a loop.  I did not know what to do.  I almost gave in and went to the McDonalds in the food court, which used cashiers.  However, since I can get McDonald’s at home, I overcame my confusion and figured out the system.  To order  food, you deposit your money in the vending machine and press the button for the food you want.  The machine does not dispense your food, but rather a paper ticket which you then hand to the server.  

And the Adventure begins

I am on the plane on the way to Tokyo-Narita.  After a short trip to Atlanta, I got on a large plane for what is a nearly 14 hour flight.  14 hours is more than twice the amount you spend in school each day.   I have already watched one movie and have started a second.  If I don’t sleep, I could watch as many as 7 movies.   The comedian Lewis Black describes the experience of a flight this long best.  He says that to have a similar experience go sit on your toilet and squeeze your head, hard, for 14 hours.  I have made this flight many many times.  And usually after completing this 14 hour leg, I have another 7 hour flight.  (In the video, I think I said another 17 hour flight, but that is just because of how tired I was),  This time, however I get to spend a night in Narita, and get some desperately needed sleep.

 

I am excited about the adventure ahead.  I know I will miss my family – Emmy, Ronan, and Katryne.  I also know that I will have some great experiences and will learn many new things.